Between 1937 and 1991, when he died aged 87, he published more than 40 books, which have sold half a billion copies between them – more even than J K Rowling’s Harry Potter books. He nearly burned his first book, And to think that I saw it on Mulberry Street, after it was turned down by 27 publishers.
As the water begins to get shallower, water movement is slowed by friction against the bottom. The waves are slowed down and pushed together. That makes each wave steeper, especially on its front side. As the water gets shallower, the waves get steeper and steeper until they fall over and break on the front side.